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Soldering Basics for FPV Builds

Soldering

Bad solder joints cause more FPV flyaways and fires than almost any other single factor. This guide covers the iron settings, solder alloy, and technique needed to make reliable joints on ESCs, motors, and XT connectors.

fc not powering onmotor not spinningesc cutting out under loadburnt solder jointxt60 connector hot

Equipment

  • Iron: A temperature-controlled iron is non-negotiable. Hakko FX-888D or TS80P are the most recommended in the FPV community. Avoid cheap irons without temperature control — they overheat pads and lift them from PCBs.
  • Solder: 63/37 leaded solder (Sn63Pb37), 0.6–0.8mm diameter. Leaded solder flows better and wets faster than lead-free, which matters on compact FPV boards. Use flux-core solder.
  • Flux: Additional rosin flux paste for stubborn joints and XT60 connectors. Clean with IPA after.
  • Tip: A fine chisel tip for SMD work; a medium chisel for power pads and XT connectors.

Temperature Settings

  • FC and ESC signal pads: 300–320°C. Quick in-and-out — avoid dwelling on pads.
  • Power pads and motor wires: 350–380°C. More mass requires more heat, but still move quickly.
  • XT60 connectors: 400–420°C. Large thermal mass — pre-tin the cup heavily before inserting the wire.

The Golden Rule

Heat the joint, not the solder. Touch the iron to the pad and wire simultaneously, then feed solder into the joint — not onto the iron tip. Solder that melts on the tip rather than the joint produces a cold joint that looks shiny but has poor conductivity.

Inspecting Joints

  • Good joint: Shiny, concave fillet that wets both surfaces. Pulls the wire rather than sitting on top of it.
  • Cold joint: Dull, grainy, or cracked surface. Re-flow with fresh flux.
  • Bridged joint: Solder connects two adjacent pads. Use solder wick to remove, then re-flow.
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